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Lesson 1 of 6 · Reading · 2 min

Why butter, eggs and sugar slow everything down

A lean bread is flour, water, salt and yeast. An enriched dough adds fat, eggs, milk and sugar. They make a softer, richer, longer-keeping bread, and each one changes how the dough behaves.

What each enrichment does
IngredientWhat it does to the breadWhat it does to the dough
ButterA soft, tender crumb and a rich flavourCoats the gluten and weakens it; slows the rise
EggsColour, flavour and a light, springy crumbAdd moisture and strength, but make the dough sticky
SugarSweetness, a golden crust, longer keepingDraws water away from the yeast and slows it down
MilkA soft crumb and a browner crustBrings fat and sugar of its own

Why everything is slower

Sugar and fat both slow yeast down. Sugar pulls water away from the yeast cells; butter coats the flour and gets in the way of the gluten. That’s why enriched doughs use more yeast than lean bread and rise for longer, and why the butter goes in only after the gluten has had a chance to form.

Why the dough is sticky

An enriched dough feels wetter and stickier than a bread dough with the same amount of liquid. The answer isn’t more flour, which makes a dry, heavy bake. It’s patience: knead until the gluten develops and the dough comes away from the bowl on its own.

Why we chill it

Butter is soft at room temperature and firm in the fridge. Chilling a brioche or babka dough overnight sets the butter, so a soft, greasy dough becomes firm enough to shape neatly. It also gives the flavour time to develop.